The History of Washington Wines
Washington's first wine grapes were planted at Fort Vancouver by the
Hudson's Bay Company in 1825. By 1910, wine grapes were growing in most
areas of the state, following the path of early settlers. Initially, it was
French, German and Italian immigrants who pioneered the earliest plantings.
Wine historians Ron Irvine and Dr. Walter Clore document in their book, The
Wine Project, a continuous and connected effort to cultivate wine grapes
beginning with those early plantings at Fort Vancouver. Hybrid varieties
arrived in nurseries in the Puget Sound region as early as 1854 and by 1860,
wine grapes were planted in the Walla Walla Valley.
Large-scale irrigation, fueled by runoff from the melting snowcaps of the
Cascade Mountains, arrived in eastern Washington in 1903 unlocking the
dormant potential of the rich volcanic soils and warm, sunny desert-like
climate. Italian and German varietals were planted in the Yakima and
Columbia Valleys and wine grape acreage expanded rapidly in the early part
of the 20th century. In 1910, the first annual Columbia River Valley Grape
Carnival was held in Kennewick. By 1914 important vineyards had sprung up in
the Yakima Valley, most notably the vineyards of W.B. Bridgman of Sunnyside.
The arrival of Prohibition in 1920 put a damper on wine grape production,
but ironically may have helped spawn early interest in home winemaking. At
the end of Prohibition the first bonded winery in the Northwest was founded
on Puget Sound's Stretch Island. By 1938 there were 42 wineries located
throughout the state.
The first commercial-scale plantings began in the 1960's and efforts of
the earliest producers, predecessors to today's Columbia Winery and Chateau
Ste. Michelle, attracted the attention of wine historian Leon Adams. Adams
in turn introduced pioneering enologist Andre Tchelistcheff to Chateau Ste.
Michelle. It was Tchelistcheff who helped guide Chateau Ste. Michelle's
early efforts and mentored modern winemaking in this state. The resulting
rapid expansion of the industry in the mid 70's is now rivaled by today's
breakneck pace, where a new winery opens nearly every 15 days.
The trend for quality wine production started by a few home winemakers
and visionary farmers has become a respected and influential $2.4 billion
industry. Shipments of Washington wine go to all 50 states and more than 40
countries globally. Washington ranks second nationally for premium wine
production and more than 30,000 acres (11,736 hectares) are planted to
vinifera grapes.
Significant developments in Washington State include the formation of the
Washington Wine Commission in 1987, a unified marketing and trade
association. In 1999, the Commission established the Washington Wine Quality
Alliance (WWQA) to spearhead development of industry standards in winemaking
and labeling. Washington is the first state in the U.S. to define standards
for "reserve" wines. In 2003, the Washington Wine Institute and its
educational partners celebrated the state’s $2.3 million investment (per
biennium) to create new 2-year and 4-year degree programs supporting
Washington’s growing wine industry. The program provides an educated work
force to satisfy the needs of the growing industry. A degree program,
ongoing education and research enhance the state’s reputation as a quality
wine producing region.
The area available for future plantings is immense. In the 10.7
million-acre (4.33 million hectares) Columbia Valley 17,000 acres (6,880
hectares) are planted to wine grapes. In the sub-regions, the 640,000 acre
(259,008 hectares) Yakima Valley has approximately 10,000 acres (4,047
hectares) planted to vines; Walla Walla has 180,000 acres (77,846 hectares)
approximately 1,200 acres (486 hectares) in wine grapes; and the Puget Sound
wine region has 80 planted acres (32 hectares). Red Mountain has
approximately 4,040 acres (1,635 hectares), with 710 acres (287 hectares)
planted to vines. The state’s newest appellation, Columbia Gorge encompasses
an area of 4,432 acres (1794 hectares) with approximately 300 acres (121
hectares) planted to vines.
Washington's wine future is limitless. As consumers discover the quality
of Washington wines, demand continues to grow nationally and
internationally. New acreage and wine varietals are being planted and new
wineries are opening at a remarkable pace. Washington State is recognized as
a premium viticultural region around the world.
The Perfect Climate
Our ideal viticultural landscape, award-winning wines, sprit of
innovation, business lifestyle and social responsibility make Washington
state the perfect climate for wine. Washington's varied climates and rich,
volcanic soils combine with long summer days and northern latitudes to
create prime growing regions across the state.
Washington state shares the same latitude as the famed Burgundy and
Bordeaux wine regions of France. The state's geographic make-up includes a
variety of microclimates for wine grapes to thrive. Washington's major grape
region is further defined by six major American Viticultural Areas (AVAs) ?
Yakima Valley, Walla Wally Valley, Columbia Valley, Puget Sound, Red
Mountain and Columbia Gorge. Each region defines a unique climate, soil and
physical features that distinguish it from surrounding areas.
Washington state's northerly latitude provides an average of two more
hours of sunlight during the prime growing season than California.
Washington's 17.4 hours of daily sunlight and warm days allow the grapes
ripen fully while cool nights keep fruit acids high, creating rich,
flavorful, well-balanced wines. Primarily grown on their own root stocks,
Washington state vines produce grapes of consistent quality, resulting in
strong vintages year after year.
The vast majority of Washington's wine grapes are grown east of the
Cascade Mountain range, providing an ideal dry, sunny climate for growing
world-class wine grapes. Eastern Washington's arid, calcerous, and sandy
soils pass on mineral notes, depth, and softness that set Washington wines
apart from other regions. The mild climate on the Western side of the state
is perfect for growing classic noble grape varietals and fruit, as well as
some hard-to-find grape varieties. Western Washington is drier and sunnier
than many classic wine grape growing regions in Europe, and rarely suffers
from prolonged freezes in the winter.
Sub-Appellations
As new vineyard sites are planted, and the resulting grapes and wines are
evaluated, vintners discover which micro-climates are most suitable for
particular varietals. Washington's vineyards include several sites that have
distinguished themselves by producing perfect fruit and, ultimately,
exceptional wines.
On the north banks of the Columbia River near the small town of Paterson
lies a rapidly emerging premium grape growing area known as Horse Heaven
Hills. The area’s unique topography offers many advantages, such as steep
south facing slopes and mitigation of temperature extremes because of its
proximity to the Columbia River.
The outstanding sites that have been developed in this area are Canoe
Ridge, Alder Ridge, and Zephyr Ridge. Alder Ridge shares the same soil
composition as Canoe Ridge but with areas of fractured basalt and caliche.
Inland from the river ridges are a variety of more established vineyards
such as the Champoux Vineyard (formerly Mercer Ranch), Destiny Ridge
Vineyard and the Andrew Vineyard.
ALDER RIDGE
One of Washington's higher vineyard locations, Alder Ridge is a steep slope
rising 1,000 feet from the bank of the Columbia River. Its proximity to the
river also makes it one of the warmest vineyard sites. It produces
Washington’s signature grape variety, Merlot, as well as Zinfandel, Barbera
and several Bordeaux varieties. Alder Ridge shares the soil composition of
Canoe and Zephyr Ridges.
CANOE RIDGE
Canoe Ridge is an optimal growing region. Some of the state's top wines are
produced from fruit grown on the wide south-to-southeast facing slopes sited
above the Columbia River, west of Paterson. Major varietals planted are
Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay.
ZEPHYR RIDGE
Directly overlooking the Columbia River, Zephyr Ridge is a unique slope with
varied exposures producing both high quality red and white wines. It is a
moderately warm site with sandy loam soil providing good drainage and
control over the vines.
COLD CREEK
A southerly facing slope of the Columbia River which enjoys one of the
longest growing season in the Columbia Valley. The low rainfall and meager
silt loam soils produce very intense and concentrated fruit. Cold Creek is
part of a high plateau that runs along the south side of the Columbia River
and is particularly noted for its distinctive Chardonnay and Cabernet
Sauvignon.
COLUMBIA BASIN / SNAKE RIVER
This is where the Columbia, Yakima and Snake rivers meet. The area
surrounding the Tri-Cities and including the broad hills bordering each side
of the Snake River is blessed with a good climate and ample irrigation.
Several large vineyards have achieved reputations for excellent Merlot,
Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon and other varietals.
WAHLUKE SLOPE & MATTAWA
Sloping gradually toward the north side of the Columbia River from Vantage
to Othello, is a high plateau known for producing distinctive varietal
character. The Wahluke Slope on the north side of the Columbia actually
includes Mattawa, one of the warmest sites in the state, known for Merlot
and Cabernet Sauvignon. Its south facing slopes are bounded on the west by
the Columbia River, on the north by the Saddle Mountains, and on the east by
the Columbia River again. Further north on the next south facing slopes is
the area that extends from the Frenchman Hills to Radar Hill near Othello.
Washington Reds
Washington produces more than 20 wine grape varieties – a ratio of 57
percent red to 43 percent white. As the industry matures and experiments, it
finds many grape varieties that thrive throughout Washington’s
microclimates. There are more than 16,000 vineyard acres of red wine
varieties statewide. Those most common in Washington are:
MERLOT
5,980 acres
2,420 hectares
Washington Merlot, with its cherry flavors and aroma, tends to be more
full-bodied, moderately tannic and slightly higher in alcohol than its
Bordeaux cousins and higher in acidity than those from California.
Traditionally used in blends, Merlot gained popularity as a stand-alone
wine in the early 1970s. It captured center stage as Washington's star
varietal almost 15 years after its first commercial release in 1976.
Washington Merlot is known for its sweet cherry, berry flavors and complex
aromas that include mint, cigar box, and sweet spices like nutmeg and
cardamom.
CABERNET SAUVIGNON
6,050 acres
2,448 hectares
The king of the red grapes grows magnificently in Washington. The heady,
fruity character of this complex grape develops slowly. In its youth, the
wine appears more subtle and restrained than Washington Merlots. Its
character can emerge as black currants, cherry, berry, chocolate, leather,
mint, herbs, bell pepper or any combination of these. This wine ages
beautifully. Frequently, several years of bottle aging are needed for the
wine to show its best. Many of the state's vintners employ traditional
blending practices, adding Merlot or Cabernet Franc to the wine.
SYRAH
2,100 acres
850 hectares
A relative newcomer to Washington State, acreage for the Syrah grape has
increased substantially in the past few years. Syrah is just one of the
Rhone varieties sparking new interest in Washington State. A spicy, rich,
complex varietal, Syrah grapes turn into big, dark, intensely concentrated
wines with aromas and flavors of blackberries, black currants, roasted
coffee and leather.
CABERNET FRANC
750 acres
304 hectares
Long considered primarily a blending grape, Cabernet Franc has recently
captured the attention of Washington's winemakers who are exploring the
grape's unique varietal characteristics. A hardy grape, Cabernet Franc has
been of primary value for the sturdy core and firm tannins it adds to softer
wines. On its own, it offers delicious, spicy notes with mellow coffee and
intense blueberry fruit. Washington vineyard acreage devoted to Cabernet
Franc has grown six-fold in the past few years.
OTHER REDS
Lemberger (Blue Franc)
Malbec
Sangiovese
Pinot Noir
Zinfandel
Washington Whites
Washington produces more than 20 wine grape varieties – a ratio of 43
percent white to 57 percent red. As the industry matures and experiments it
finds many grape varieties to thrive throughout Washington’s microclimates.
There are more than 12,000 vineyard acres of white wine varieties statewide.
Those most common in Washington are:
CHARDONNAY
6,640 acres
2,687 hectares
Washington State's most widely planted grape is also the best manifestation
of the state's special winemaking character. While Chardonnay is noted in
many other regions as a rich and powerful wine, Washington Chardonnays are
often distinctively crisp and delicate, like fresh apples. Oak, if any, is
often used with a lighter touch, showing off the varietal character. Also,
some wineries use secondary malolactic fermentation to add rich vanillin and
buttery nuances.
RIESLING
2,200 acres
890 hectares
One of the original grape varieties grown in Washington, the state's
Rieslings tend to be very floral in the nose, with vivid apricot-peach
flavors. Occasionally, the "noble rot" works its magic on Riesling,
concentrating the sugars and flavors to produce a late-harvest or ice wine
of incomparable intensity. Most Washington Rieslings are vinted in a dry to
slightly off-dry style to accompany food.
SEMILLON
550 acres
223 hectares
Washington is known for its Semillon, and while this wine is most often
enjoyed young, Washington Semillons have been known to age beautifully into
rich, honeyed, nutty wines. When young, it offers a broad spectrum of
flavors, ranging from crisp citrus to melon and fig, and from fresh pears to
vanillin. A wine with somewhat lower acidity than Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon
is luscious, yet light. Its lower acidity makes it more susceptible to
botrytis, resulting in a fair number of late-harvest bottlings.
SAUVIGNON BLANC
710 acres
287 hectares
These grapes make wines that appear under two names-Sauvignon Blanc and Fumé
Blanc. They are becoming increasingly popular for their distinctive
character. Often described as fruity with a touch of herbaceousness and
lively acidity. As with Chardonnay, styles range from slightly tart and
grassy to tangy pineapple overlaid with oak.
GEWÜRZTRAMINER
670 acres
271 hectares
An early Washington success story because of its ability to withstand the
cold winters, Gewürztraminer typically offers allspice, tropical fruit with
zesty aromas and flavors. Previously made only in an off-dry, or slightly
sweet style, Gewürztraminer is now being explored by Washington winemakers
who wish to make dry styles that retain its rich aromatics.
OTHER WHITES
Aligote
Madeleine Angevine
Muscat Canelli
Muller Thurgau
Pinot Gris
Siegerrebe
Viognier
Roussanne
Recent Acclaim
Accolades:
“There’s no doubt that Washington can fashion some of the world’s greatest
Cabernets and Merlots …” — Pierre-Antoine Rovani, The Wine Advocate, August
2004
Wine Spectator critics choose Washington wines among the top wines from
around the world for quality and value. Twenty-five Washington wines were
selected as the best global buys for $15 or less. — Wine Spectator,
September 15, 2004
A Washington State wine named best Bordeaux-style blend by Food & Wine
magazine, 2004 American Wine Awards. -- Food & Wine, October 2004
Washington State wineries are getting better with every vintage. – Harvey
Steiman, Wine Spectator, October 15, 2004
“In my 20-plus years of wine reviewing, I have never seen a stronger crop
of wines, across the board.” “What is particularly encouraging is that
prices are being held at reasonable levels by the established producers,
while many of the very best newcomers are avoiding the ego trap of using
sticker shock as a marketing tool.” --- Paul Gregutt, The Seattle Times,
September 22, 2004
Wine & Spirits magazine named two Washington State wine producers among
the world’s 50 most influential winemakers. A Washington State vineyard was
named among the world’s ten greatest vineyards. — Wine & Spirits, Fall 2004
Compliments of the Washington Wine Commission
Washington Wine Commission
The Washington Wine Commission is responsible for the promotion and
development of the Washington wine industry, representing the state's nearly
300 wineries and 30,000 vineyard acres. For more information about
Washington wines, touring, and tasting opportunities, visit
www.washingtonwine.org, e-mail
info@washingtonwine.org or call 206-667-9463
ext. 200.